Koi Pond General Information

Koi keepers should know that all of the information on this website pertains to their hobby, and Koi fish.  All of the medicating techniques, the disease library, articles and everything else written in all of the website categories.

Why are we explaining this?  Because Koi keepers tend to segregate themselves away from the rest of the tropical fish industry.  For some reason, they think that we are here talking about tropical fish and say "I don't have tropical fish, I have Koi and they're different".  Actually, they are pond fish, and that is the only thing that really makes them different from a fish kept in an aquarium.  There are some obvious differences of course, but medicating fish is the same no matter if you are medicating a Koi, or a Neon Tetra.

Koi are colorful mutations of the wild carp, and thus are classified in the same genus and species, Cyprinus carpio.

Cyprinids have the widest continuous distribution of any freshwater fish family.  The greatest diversity and the most advanced cyprinids occur in Southeast Asia, which is thought to be the center of origin of the family.  The cyprinids' ecologic equivalents in South America are the characins, and in Australia, the rainbow fishes.

Fact:  Did you know that a Koi can live up to 60 years?

Koi can be included into a densely planted pond, if the area is large and deep enough.  The Koi will do much better if the population is kept small and they are not confined to smaller spaces.  In stocking a pond, the usual recommendation is for no more than one inch of fish per square foot of pond surface area.  The water quality of well-stocked ponds should always be closely monitored to prevent ammonia levels from becoming toxic.

Koi have special environmental needs and are, therefore, not really suited for life in the water garden un-attended.  Even though Koi may be fed sufficiently, they still require fresh greens in their diet.  The submerged grasses and tender submerged lily growth often prove irresistible.  Trying to curtail their appetite with daily feedings of fresh lettuce and celery leaves, may not prove to change some of their habits.  The pond is a virtual smorgasbord to a Koi.  It may be worthwhile to culture some small pots of leaf lettuce.  You can put these in the pond if you cover the topsoil with some rocks so they won't nudge them over, and then set them in the pond for the Koi to feed on.

Like wild carp, Koi are omnivorous, and in captivity are normally fed once or twice a day.  They can be offered processed food (pelletized food) that has been especially made for the Koi's nutritional requirements.

Koi can be very hard on your plants because of their persistent rooting habits.  They will root around looking for insects and larvae to feed on.  Any valuable plants should be planted in tubs, which are then placed in the pond.

Also make sure that if you are using bricks as a platform to set your plants on, to use some concrete pond paint on them to prevent them from leeching lye into the pond.  This will be toxic to the fish and cause you to have extremely high pH levels.

Pond Fish

Sometimes, unfortunately... we are not blessed with good water, and must use the 8.6+ pH city tap water in our ponds.  These high pH levels are not real good for many species of Koi.  It may be better for you to keep some common goldfish, comet goldfish, or shubunkin's instead.  These fish will grow huge just like the koi, and they will be much easier on your budget.  Plus they are pretty hardy, and the shubunkin's are very colorful.

Some species of catfish, tilapia and the aquarium plecostimus (algae eater) may be introduced to the pond in warmer climate zones.  These fishes are scavengers and will help keep the bottom of the pond cleaner (This is no excuse not to clean your pond).  Continual maintenance of your pond is crucial, and keeping a beautiful pond has proven to be too much work for many people.

Run-off water from a nearby stream, or collected rainwater may contain toxic insecticides, herbicides or fertilizers.  Rainwater from metal roofs or asbestos shingles will contaminate the pond and may prove toxic to both the fish, and the plants.  If the fish display signs of toxicity, execute a 50% water change and/or remove the fish to safe quarters, or a hospital tank until the water has been changed.

Acid rain may produce stress in water lilies.  Immediately following a heavy rainfall, the lily leaves may show signs of burning at the edges or abrupt yellowing.  A partial water change may be needed after such rainy periods, if the pH readings are lower than the neutral 7.0 range.

White foam at the waterfall entry of the pond is a sign of a high level of dissolved organic compounds.  Do some partial water changes and add some Aqua Gold to the pond to handle the high organic load.

Salt is pretty amazing in it's ability to control algae, detoxify Nitrites, kill parasites and it's antiseptic qualities.  Salt is a great item to use for your water quality, but first... you need to know how much to add.  We feel that a 0.1% continual salt bath is a good level to run all the time.  To achieve this level, add 1¼ ounces of salt per 10 gallons of pond water. 

The maximum level of salt that you can run without major damage to the fish is 0.3%.  This high salt level is used for treating fish wounds and parasites.  To achieve this level, add 3.8 oz. of salt per 10 gallons.  This salt level is better suited for a bath in a hospital tank.

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